Central Striking Distance

Billings, MT. Denver, CO. Albuquerque, NM

 

After our cheap $30 a night high class accommodation we were to vacate the premises and move onto our next destination of Billings, MT. Home of guns, country folk, two-stepping and AJ. Getting to Billing, MT while not so hard in theory, by public transport it proved to be a hilarious combination of amusement and stress.

While we had left a message with the local county bus company the night before (as the bus only ran once a week and only if a reservation is made would it actually arrive in Sweet Grass at all), we still were not completely certain if they were going to turn up or not. We had even been reassured by the bar wench and local alcoholics in attendance the night before, that every Thursday the bus appeared at 7.30am in front of the service area next to the servo. As much trust as I had in the local drinkers, we thought it sound that we call the bus company again that morning as we waited, in order to double check. Getting signal for the cell was challenging in the podunk town of Sweet Grass. While I wandered around various locations to get signal, I was stopped yet again by border patrol and asked to produce identification. Turns out they don’t get too many people around these parts that don’t haves a car. I guess they thought I was some sort of Australian bootlegger, just trying to get my hooch into Canada.
30 minutes later the bus actually turned up, heading in to drop off the local border employees it seemed. But then just as we think it is going to return and pick us up, the bloody bus drives off. Panic resumes again as this is the only way we have out of this town, I take off down the road chasing the damn thing, shouting and waving like a crazy person who got splash back from a portapottie. Crystal at the same time tried calling the bus company for the third time, getting hold of an actual person, who in turn informed the rapidly departing bus that 2 desperate backpackers were still waiting for him to pick them up.

The ride itself was relative uneventful, apart from being completely free, thanks to it being a community bus for the local county, which was awesome. First stop was Shelby, another town that typically does not appear in guidebooks, where we transferred to in another community bus in order to continue on our merry way. Crystal passed out as per usual as soon as we starting rolling, I have come to the conclusion that she passes out at the drop of a hat on any form of public transit, with the exception being if she needs to pee and or poop, which she will then keep me informed at all times as to her bathroom needs and her lower gastrointestinal status.
I as per usual made a new friend; Max was an ex-rig pipe fitter, who was on his way to Great Falls to see his doctor about his back problems. When I enquired as to how this unfortunate event had occurred he muttered something about his wife, and ideas in the bedroom (It was actually chronic pain due to someone dropping pipes on him when he worked on a rig). By the end of our 2 hour chat about many topics of a manly nature I managed to acquire the name and address of a friend of his that lived in Billings, that should any emergency occur I could just call him and say Max sent me. It sounded a bit suspect to me, especially after Max had earlier given me two pills with the statement, good for pain. But I figured, Max seemed like a cool cat, why wouldn’t his friend be?

Another greyhound station and we were away off into the wild blue yonder of Rimrock Trailways buses, the chariot of the rednecks.
Some classic quotes heard from the crème of society that happened to be riding with us on the bus,

One sided phone conversation of a redneck male speaking to current/ex-female he places his penis into on an irregular basis,
“I’m coming all these ways to Billings and I hears off Teddy that you been seen at other mens trailers”
“Well, if they’re your friends, then why are they all mens”
“No, I can’t get off the bus, it’s a bus”
“Then I won’t be seeing you, you whore”

Heard from one of the 4 mothers with snotty nosed rug rats in toe,
“I gots 8 kids” she then proceeds to name and age all of them, the oldest being 18, already with kids of their own.
Replied one of the other breeders, “Wow, you don’t look it at all, I would have said only five”


The joys of buses and the microcosm of the underclass they can be.

 

We eventually arrived to our destined location of not Billings, but Boute (pronounced, Boot) where my brother from another mother, AJ picked us up and we promptly headed off to a hot springs resort that he had sprung for. We got a bit messy and warmed up the stiff and sore bodies, which felt amazing on the war wounds still present from the car rollover. Over the next couple of days we stayed at AJ’s parents house, dining like royalty on the delicious food that his mother would prepare for us everyday, I’m pretty sure I gained a couple of kilograms in those 4 days we were there.

Some other country activities fulfilled were shooting some weapons, now Crystal had been complaining for as long as I had know her that no one had ever taken her out on a gun range before. When she heard the news that AJ was going to take us out, I am pretty sure she wet herself in excitement of the possibility of having a loaded weapon in her hand. We drove out to middle of no-where-ville up in the hills overlooking Billings, in apprehensive excitement of some pistol and rifle shooting. In total we had a .22 pistol, 9mm pistol, .22 rifle and a 303 rifle, the latter being the big boy toy I was looking forward to handling, in a completely heterosexual manner. After all her pre-shooting excitement, Crystal didn’t hit a thing on her first clip, turns out she didn’t know how to aim the gun, and was using the camera method of just pointing in the general direction of what you want and shooting. She eventually got better enough to the point that one bullet out of the clip hit the water jug we were using as a target. The author on the other hand was an awesome shot, killing that mother bitch that was the water jug. With the scoped out 303 definitely being my favourite.

Some other activities that we also managed to participate in were a fair bit of two stepping the social activity of choice for the locals for cross-sexual congregation. Where some enjoy the nightclubs with their black lights and anonymous sex, Billings as the largest city in Montana had only one nightclub but copious amounts of bars where one could shake their tail feather two-stepping style. AJ was the master of the two-step, and I was the master of my own domain, which was definitely not two-step. But we had had a fun time doing what we could with what He gave us. Shaking it.

In order to get from Billings, the most cost and time effective method to get from point A in Billings, MT to our next destination of Denver, CO turned out to be renting a car to split the cost between the two of us. It was an enjoyable 9 hours straight shot, busting through the entire state of Wyoming, stopping off for just snack and pee breaks. From what we managed to see of the state from the car windows, there was a lot of yellow grass and not much else. The minimal time spent in Wyoming did not weight too heavily on my heart nor cause much undue loss to my traveler’s soul, ‘cause central Wyoming looked like a fairly unexciting place to be. Before our eventual arrival in Denver we did managed to acquire ourselves a delicious homemade meal in Fort Collins thanks to the work of Michal and family, good friends of young Crystal


Denver, CO
Denver was educational to say the least, I expanded my lexicon with many new words and slang, I learnt about the state of Colorado and the many nations that have at one ruled the fine state (one of them being France), I generally froze my arse off in the snow, I was educated as to the process of brewing a fine craft ale and rediscovered that hiking above sea level is very tiring to say the least.

During our time of dormancy in Denver we stayed at the delightful apartment of another of Crystal’s friends, Signey a girl with an amazing personality that is not to say that she is not one to look at, but that she is an all round great person, who happened to study engineering. Because all engineers are awesome does not necessarily impact nor void on previous sentence due to me being biased. She was however living as she said in the real life version of the L Word. For those who do not know of this thing I write of, read the link ya pack of lazy bums. She worked at a lesbian coffee shop of a day and at night was bar tending at Her Bar, the aptly named newest and hottest place to be. The full on dykestyle did lead her to being fair busy most of the time, but she did mange to squeeze some time in for her guests. That being said there wasn’t really much to see in Denver itself, we managed to see the Capitol building, buy some craft beer, expensive cheese and visit a bookstore (Tattered cover book store, the best part of the highly overrated 16th street ‘Mall’). The latter 3 were starting to become fairly standard for most cities we were in. We were budget backpackers, but we could always afford a little for some of the luxuries in life, namely boutique beer and soft cheeses. After which we would celebrate with a meal of ramen.

 

Signey also had a car, which meant on one of her days off she drove with Crystal and myself to Fort Collins for some brewery tours (a similar concept to winery tours, except more awesome because it is beer). We hit up both O’Dells and the New Belgium Brewing Company. Some highlights included, slides inside the factory for the tourists to get from one level to another, an amusing lack in OH&S with allowances of open toed shoes on the brewery floor, being able to take your pint of beer around with you as you tour the factory all employs at NBB are given a bicycle to ride to work, the company is 100% employee owned and beer is only allowed to be stocked by stores and bars if it is door-to-door refrigeration there by maintaining the character of the beer due to a lack of variations in temperature. We also had some sampler beers and took a growler (refillable jug of an on-tap beer) with us.
After all the brewery touring, the girls decided it would be fun to do some hula hooping, it was amusing to not just me, but some passersby had a bit of a chuckle as well.

Some other fun that was had during our time in Denver was at the aforementioned bar, Her Bar. Where I recreated 2003 in glorious form, cutting the dance floor like I was a hot knife, and she was my butter, which I would then spread on some bread, the bread remained more amused than receptive to my spreading skills. Short story short, it was a good night and a rough morning. A couple of days after the groovetastic time of the Her Bar we managed to partake in a fairly easy hike in Bolder with Signey and her girlfriend. Boulder is a small mountain town less than an hour north of Denver and part of the Colorado Rocky Mountains. Fairly easy hike in Boulder should be noted that it is a bit of a challenge due to such high altitude, 5430ft above sea level (1655m). There was some fairly heavy breathing going on, and not of the sweaty and sexual variety, more of the passing out due to lack of oxygen type. Signey and her girl on the other hand were barely even breaking sweat, turned out both of them were in training for a triathlon. Then we went to eat some crepes in town and they were delicious.

 

But like all good things and bad our time with Signey was coming to a warm and sticky end, like a pearl necklace encircling the slender, swan like neck of a duchess, sometimes it is short and sweet, and if you get it in her eye, it won’t be fun. And as per usual we got to experience the bad again in the form of the devilishly fun Greyhound bus system for the onward journey to Albuquerque, NM.


Albuquerque, NM
Adventures were had while we were stationed in Albuquerque. We spent most of our time relaxing with Michelle, a friend of mine who also studied with me in Mexico. While the city of Albuquerque may not be up there on the list of must see tourist destinations, for me it really was the people that made it. Everyone I met there were just such chill cats, not in the sense that they were frozen felines, but in the way that they were so welcoming and accommodating to people that they only just met.
A majority of the time was spent socializing with Michelle and her friends at house parties, random BBQ chicken nights, Passover with some quality eating of motzo ball soup and potato pancakes. But definitely one of the best days of all was the Sunday kickball day where I got to experience the time honored Nuevo-American tradition of kickball. While I had not played this game before I figured the rules could not be any more difficult than the Australian gentlemen’s sport of cricket.

 

For those not in the know, kickball has the same layout and pitch as baseball or softball, except there was no bat and only a large kickball that a ‘pitcher’ would roll at speed out to a ‘batter’ who would then boot the thing as hard as they could and hope one of the 20 or more drunken fielders would not catch it, nor tag them with it. While it is a sport, the prime concern of to most involved was a the consumption of beer, according to some rules it seems beers do not come out onto the pitch, leaving the batting side to be the only one drinking till 3 went out and they rotate with the fielding side. This was not case in Albuquerque, as long as you were standing you were able to be A) playing and B) drinking. Some of the more inebriated team members had to be reminded that they needed to place their beverages down before they could catch the ball, lest their beer be displaced from their grip. Interestingly sometimes the kicker had to be told to put down their brew before starting their sprint to first base.
As the afternoon progressed into evening, half time was declared so that the players could rehydrate, pet dogs could be let off their leashes and the official half time break grilling could begin. A grill was setup in the back of a pickup (Australian translation: Ute) and dogs and burgers were cooked to perfect for the ravenous players. When play resumed, things got a bit more heated, a bit too serious and a hell of a lot more messy. The game ended as the light faded and the sun set over the field of dreams, the final scores were only a point between the winner and losers, the author of course unfortunately was not the of the victorious side, he chooses to blame inexperience.

 

The two main touristy type things that we managed to partake in were the University of New Mexico’s world famous duck pond and their Geology Museum, not just because it was free, but because rocks are awesome. A mini tour of the restaurant and tacky gift shop centric Old Town was also conducted, but it seemed this areas was mostly inhabited by geriatric tourists who were being shipped there and bused out again by the all inclusive casinos that they were all staying /slowly dying in.

Getting out of Albuquerque to Oklahoma turned out to be less of a challenge than we expected, after posting a ridesharing request on craigslist, we were not too hopeful on this panning out. But as it turned out we lucked in, or out, depending on your take of what happened on our easterly adventure.

The Journey, mapped.

Google Map of more or less the journey taken.


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Rollin like big dogs on top

Banff, Calgary and Sweet Grass, MT

Ride share to Banff
While the rideshare itself was relatively uneventful, seen as a fortunate, rather than unfortunate thing, the views of the Rocky Mountains along the way was just mind blowing. We left at 8am and I being somewhat tired from the hat party of the night before, napped for a majority of the morning. The views as can be seen below, speak for themselves. If they could not speak for themselves I’m sure they would be saying things like, “Look at me, ain’t I huge and snowy, like a tall white man”.

 

Banff
We finally rolled into Banff, somewhat after sunset after a massive day on the road, ready to eat, sleep and not much else. This ended up being the first time we could not find someone to host us for couch surfing, Thus we had to be content with a hostel, at about $35 a night, while not cheap, was the cheapest option in Banff. But we did managed to get free breakfast and a bus pass though. Randomly a friend of mine Ben, whom was working on the mountains happened to be at the same place. So he took us out to one of the cheap local restaurants for a 3 course spaghetti meal. We made ridiculously good use of the infinite garlic bread, 5 loaves between 3 people, was not bad I thought.

Some of the good things enjoyed in the time of Banffness was the Hot Pools which had amazing views of the surrounding Rocky Mountains but at the same time, just felt like a small and yet overtly hot public pool with how crowded they were. The ever present danger of ingesting small child super heated urine, kept my head and mouth out of the 40C of liquid fun.
The delectable cold snow and ice did lead to some amazing picturesque moments though, while walking along the river, to doing a mild forest trek and even trying to stop Crystal breaking her ankle in the icey conditions.

 

Downsides, hostels, while they can be a great communal place to meet people from countries other than the one you are currently travelling through, they can also provide an unwilling habitat to the creature most mothers try to keep from escaping from their natural enclosure of the bedroom. The animals I would be writing of are none other than the stinky teenager, and in Banff said stinky teens originated from one of 3 countries, Australia, UK and Japan. The key reason being the easy to get Work and Travel visa, Canada just gives out these things like candy. The largest percentage of stinky primates at the HI hostel I was residing originated from the UK, none of them aged older than 20, thus can only be assumed to be gap year kiddies. Happily working on the slopes for a pittance, while all the time gaining valuable life experiences that Canada had to offer, delving into such as the intellectual forays of drinking and getting blazed.
As much as it would seem, I don’t really have an issue with these peanuts, but what I had a problem with was sharing a room with three of them. Upon opening the door to the dorm room, I was olfactorily assaulted, being forced to keep it open for a full 30min while their’ collective scents could be adequately aired out of the room. Clearly general body hygiene and the concept of regularly laundering ones clothes had not been sufficiently drilled into their ethanol fermented brains.

Random Point
Steak and BJ day was 14th March.

The travel from Banff to the biggest city in Alberta, Calgary turned out to be far more exciting than most could imagine. Just on the outskirts of Calgary, the car we were travelling in got involved in a spot of bother. According to witnesses, the car rolled about 4 to 5 times and from the point of impact to the time it stopped on its wheels it was about 100 meters down the road on the other side of the highway. With cuts and bruises being the majority of injuries to all four of us, it was a sign from above that it was not my time. Within minutes of it happening, police, fire and ambulance had arrived and treating us all. Side note, health care system of Canada, very good, while my insurance bill is not cheap, it is still very good. We all got sent via ambulance while strapped into C-splints to the hospital and I got sent to another hospital different to everyone else, Rockyview hospital. After some X-Rays to check my head was still attached I was discharged and pointed in the direction bus that could take me to the other hospital where everyone house was being treated.

That night ended up being spent at a hotel, as none of us had access to our bags, they had all been recovered by the police, for us to collect in the morning. A delicious meal of pizza and cola was consumed at the Hotel, which had an indoor pool, unfortunately it could not be used, as all our bathing suits were residing with the constabulary.

This day was also Crystal birthday, it was not celebrated exactly the way she would have liked it to.


Calgary
When everything was retrieved from the PoPo in the morning, Praise Jesus, nothing was broken, not my lappy, nor my camera, even my bright ass yellow sunglasses survived the 100km/hr roll over.
Calgary is the biggest city in the state of Alberta, incidentally it also looks like it was designed in the 1970’s and hasn’t changed since then, with just the occasional spit polish to get things all spiffy for visitors. But what really made the city for me was Melissa, our courchsurfing host in the Big C. She was her own force of nature, bike riding, volunteering, pen paling and just generally being an all around amazing person. While she was busy most of the time we were there we did manage to have some extended chats with her and her brother late into the evening about travels to Africa and some of the other interesting couchsurfers that had graced her couch.

 

Calgary to the USA
Getting the hell out of Canada, far more challenging overland than first thought. Originally the thought process was, Alberta is north of Montana, we should in theory be able to get out the same way we got in, just take a bus south. Wrong. As far south as buses go from Calgary is to the exciting town of Lethbridge, which is still about another 100km from the Northern frontier. Thus in order to get into Montana from Calgary we had 4 options, rent a car one way from Alberta to Montana (turned out no car rental company allowed one way rentals from Canada to the States), take a private shuttle bus from Calgary to Great Falls for $500, catch a flight, where the cheapest available flight was about $350 each or take the Greyhound as far south as we could get, then hitch for the rest of the way to Sweet Grass, border town USA.

Clearly the first two viable options were way out of our budget for such a short leg of the trip. Thus we took Greyhound and then hitchhiked the rest of the way. Yes there was a slight risk we could be carted away Wolf Creek style, murdered and then our mangled corpses be molested and sodomised by cold flesh hungry rednecks. But it was a highly unlikely risk we were willing to take. Calgary bus station was amusing though, all passengers were metal checked and padded down. Then luggage being pulled apart in search of weapons or alcohol. This was the first time I had seen this occur outside of Mexico. Asking around to the other passengers why the high level of security, turns out a couple of years ago a guy on the same route we were about to travel on down to Lethbridge had randomly used a hunting knife to cut off the head of the passenger sitting next to him.
This was not very reassuring news when we were about to hitchhike.

The hitching itself was not too difficult, in the 1.5-2 hours that it took us to get to the border we managed to get 4 rides, essentially just jumping from one tiny town to the next, waiting for 30 minutes at the longest wait time. The worst part about the waiting was that we were stuck out in the freezing cold Chinook wind that was blowing down from the Rockies, so strong at times that we were nearly getting blown over while wearing our packs. In order of drivers, we got lifts off a horse trainer, mechanic, three 18 year old kids, and a mother and daughter to get us to Coutts, the border town on the Canadian side.

When we actually got to the border itself we were presented with a slight difficulty. Unlike the southern border we were so used to, on the northern side there was no pedestrian walkway. Only three lanes for trucks and one for cars, we chose the car lane, mainly because it seemed like the only one that was actually manned. This is where the antics began and lasted for some time as we were detained on the border between Canada and the United States.

Some classic quotes from Border Patrol while being questioned.

“How did you get here?”
“We hitchhiked”
Looks at us questioningly, “In winter?”
We look around, to as if see if our invisible car has magically become revealed to the naked eye.
“Yes”

“How did you get so many stamps in your passport?”
“I traveled to these countries”
“How did you pay for all this travel?”
“I worked”
“and what did you do?”
“Cleaner Production Consultant for a water business”
He goes quiet.
“that’s enough, sit down”

“You have a flight out of the United States?”
“Yes”
“Show me the ticket”
“I don’t have it on me, it’s electronic”
“and then how do you know where it is?”
“I use my laptop to check my email….”
“Just go sit down”


There were more, but these were just some of the highlights.


We finally walked across to Sweet Grass, MT after the detainment with border security, ready for food, drinking and passing out. We managed to find the only bar, motel and restaurant in the entire town, who were fortunate to have some emergency rooms available for us.
Quote from bartender after we enquired about accommodation situation, “The motel is for emergencies only”, we pretty much looked at the bartender, wondering if she meant if we didn’t want this, we could be pitching our tent outside.

 

But there was no greater way to celebrate St Patricks Day than with a couple of PBR’s and a nice Sub sandwich. A perfect end to a very long day.